We have a pretty funny story about the start of our time in Hoi An. We arrived after dark after flying into Da Nang airport. We checked into our hotel and decided to walk into town for a drink. We were a bit surprised and, to be honest, a bit scared. It was extremely dark, we couldn’t really even see where we were going. We were having a hard time finding a place to have dinner in the seemingly completely dark town. We found a restaurant and it seemed semi-crowded so we thought it couldn’t hurt to try. We walked in and sat down by the light of some tea candles and thought to ourselves “this is so freaking weird”, but we were hungry and unsure of what we should have expected so we just went with it. Finally, a short time later we discovered through our kind waitress, that the power had gone out in the town. Suddenly everything made sense, and we also realized that we were actually at incredible dinner spot and we had one of the best meals of our trip here. We walked home in complete darkness after dinner and hoped that tomorrow we’d get to see some of Hoi An in the light of day.
Walking into the city the next day was an absolute shock! We couldn’t believe how gorgeous it was. We couldn’t have imagined this amazing world that existed in the dark the night before! Hoi An is FULL of color, the yellow buildings contrasted by all of the beautiful lanterns in all the colors of the rainbow, the boats of all bright colors floating in the water… we were mind blown! We quickly came to love it here and it is likely my favorite city we’ve been to in Asia, or at least closely tied with Chaing Mai in Thailand.
As stunning as this city is, and as amazing as walking around endlessly and staring at all of the beautiful buildings and lanterns was, when I dream about coming back to Hoi An, it is because of the food! The food scene here is next level. Everything we ate in Vietnam was delicious, but Hoi An was special above the rest. Even the puppies eat noodles here!
Here are some of our favorites that you must try when you visit.
Rose Dumplings- No question these are the things that I sit around in Philadelphia and think to myself, I wish I had a rose dumpling. They are translucent dumplings filled with pork and/or shrimp, often topped with fried shallots, and accompanied by a dipping sauce. They are delicate and delicious and you will never stop thinking about them after you get to try them!
Banh Mi- It likely goes without saying that if you’re planning to visit Vietnam then you know what a banh mi is. But in case you don’t, it is a type of sandwich made on a french baguette with meat, veggies, egg, often a paté and some type of sauce, lettuce, and whatever else each individual place might add. We were taken on our food tour to a place called “Banh Mi Phuong”, and our guide sat us down and served us our banh mi and then said, “This place was already really good, but then this guy from America came here once and said it was great, and ever since it has been crazy”. This “guy” from America happened to be Anthony Bourdain. We immediately started cracking up, I guess at the time he wasn’t as well known, or at least not yet in the area. They seemed surprised that a “guy from America” could have such influence on their business. Needless to say, the Bahn Mi was incredible.
Hoi An Pizza, aka fried wontons with toppings- They are quite literally fried wontons, covered with a salsa like sauce, and shrimp. They remind me a little more of a nacho plate than a pizza, but it’s the same idea. They are fun and delicious.
Vietnamese Pancake/Bahn Xeo- These were one of my favorite things we got to try, and ate them over and over just to make sure they were good! They are a crepe that is made of deep fried rice flour. As with many dishes in Vietnam, they are filled with things like shrimp, pork, veggies, bean sprouts, etc… and then you wrap them or fold them up to eat!
Morning Glory- This isn’t a food, but this restaurant was incredible. We had read it was one of the best in the city, and the reviews were spot on! I had my favorite meal of our whole time in Vietnam here, a crispy noodle dish with shrimp and veggies on top. The noodles were so perfectly crispy that as the other cooked food sat on them, they became al dente as you ate the meal. I still try to recreate this at home, but it is never quite the same.
In addition to all of the amazing food, walking around Hoi An is its own experience. The city is filled with yellow buildings, ancient homes, temples, pagodas, and a bustling market life. The city was crowded most of the time, but we didn’t feel uncomfortable, it just felt very lively. When we needed a break from it all, we took a bike ride out to An Bang beach. We rode past rice paddy fields and spotted water buffalo on our way to the beach. The ride was easy, a straight shot, and the beach was so enjoyable. We had a drink and a snack at a beach bar and walked along the water, it is a perfect and easy escape when you need a break from the city of Hoi An.
Hoi An is also a city full of tailors. It could be almost overwhelming trying to choose one, but we eventually did, and my husband had a very handsome suit made while we were there. He got to be a part of the process from start to finish. First by selecting the right fabric, then both manual and laser measuring to make sure all of the measurement were perfect. We came back early the next morning to try it on and determine if any alterations were needed, and the whole suit was finished that afternoon… about 24 hours from when the process started! And for convenience, they were even able to ship the suit home to us so that we didn’t have to carry it on our travels. He loved the experience and still wears the suit to this day (check out my post on Tuscany, he wore it to a wedding in Italy).
One of the most beautiful experiences to have in Hoi An is to see the flower lanterns that are lit up and placed in the water at night. This happens on certain evenings and special occasions, and we were lucky enough to be a part of it. Seeing the hundreds of lanterns lit up floating along the river, as well as all along the shops and store fronts, is a sight I will always remember. It was a pleasure to grab a beer and sit by the river just watching everything light up and glow. If you are coming to Hoi An, it would be a great idea to check with your accommodation or tour company to see what nights this will be happening around your visit.
Overall, a trip to Hoi An should not be missed if you are visiting Vietnam. It has so much to offer and we would love to return one day.
Plan for me dani 