Let me start by saying that if you are able, you SHOULD stay in one of the towns of the Cinque Terre. I read a lot of posts about how people didn’t enjoy the villages, and I would say 98% of them are people who visited on a day trip. This area of Italy has so much to offer and is so beautiful, if you’re going to visit on a day trip I’d highly advise you to just see one town, or maybe two. Trying to see all 5 will leave you feeling frazzled.
I also notice a lot of people who didn’t stay in Corniglia giving the advice that you shouldn’t stay here. This is often due to its steps and position a bit further from its train station. I HIGHLY disagree and we had the most wonderful experience staying here for 3 nights.
Getting to Corniglia by Train
When you get off the train in Corniglia the first thing you see is the STEPS. There are over 350 steps leading up to the town, they are switchbacks and they can take quite some time to get up, especially with luggage. After we made the trek with our bags we found out that there is also an option to take a bus! This is typical for us, but we are steps kind of people anyway. The work makes it worth it right? If you are staying in Corniglia I also suggest communicating with your accommodation about getting yourselves and your luggage to where you are staying.
Where to Stay in Corniglia
We stayed in an airbnb and it was STUNNING. It was very small but perfect for us, the view out the window looked like a painting. I really couldn’t get over the view we had over the town. The airbnb also offered breakfast at a cafe Pan e Vin that they owned in town which was a delightful bonus! The host also hosts numerous properties in Corniglia so there are other options for larger rooms or bigger groups.
Hiking from Corniglia to Neighboring Villages
One of our favorite parts of this trip was the hike between Corniglia and Vernazza. We came upon a small building that looked like it could possibly be someones home. Turns out it was a little bar! It’s called Il Gabbiano. We grabbed a glass of wine and some snacks and sat on the terrace with the most fantastic view you could possibly imagine. I could sit here for hours and just watch the world go by (and I am not really one to sit around). I love that you have to access this spot by hiking, it makes it a little more special.
It has now established itself a bit more and has a little terrace you can sit on to enjoy smoothies or an aperitivo and watch the world go by. I have chatted to the owner and he is the absolute kindest! We brought my family back to visit the following year and he created the most lovely set up for all of us. I highly recommend a stop here on your hike.
If you hike the other direction you can make it to Manarola. This hike is quite long and more challenging than the hike to Vernazza, but it is also a really great hike! When you arrive in Manarola you can treat yourself to a Fritto Misto and watch people jump off the rocky cliffs into the sea.
Where to Eat in Corniglia
Cantina da Mananan: We ate both of our dinners in Cornigilia as we were new to the town and it is nice to be in your “home base” at night. The best diner we had was at A Cantina da Mananan. It was very charming and very small, it is definitely necessary to make a reservation. We loved everything we ate here, I had a whole fish that was cooked perfectly. If you’re staying in Corniglia or make a visit here it is surely worth a stop.
Eating in the town Square: The second night of our trip we just grabbed a table at one of the restaurants in the town square. This is something you wouldn’t likely do in a busy big city like Rome or Venice, but in Corniglia you know everything is going to be great. We were greeted with a MAJOR surprise as we sat and started to have our dinner. It looked like some people were setting up for something, we assumed a birthday or family gathering. We soon found out it was the celebration of St Peter and St Paul which is celebrated in the town on June 29th. The day is celebrated with a GIANT cake and a parade of sorts through the town between the churches. It was a really beautiful celebration to see and to watch as the town all gathered together for the event. We were even lucky enough to see fireworks at the end of the night from our airbnb window. It was an experience we could never have even imagined getting, and it makes Corniglia all that much more special.
IT Titurismo Corniglia: This is one of my favorite restaurants in all of the Cinque Terre. It is a bit of a climb above the town, but if you’re staying in town I recommend messaging them, they may be able to pick you up. This spot has some of the best fish dishes we’ve ever had, they cook what they catch that day, and they do an amazing job. The views are INCREDIBLE! It would be a lovely lunch spot, but if you can go for sunset I 100% recommend that you do. The views and the fresh fish are just out of the this world.
Where to Swim in Corniglia
Many people also love to tell you that there is no access to swimming from Corniglia and this technically isn’t true either. Although you can’t just walk right out your door and be on the sea, there is a path to the sea directly from the town. It takes you down to a beautiful rocky spot where you can lounge and jump into the sea. This is my favorite kind of “beach” anyway and it is far less crowded than many of the other swimming spots in the Cinque Terre.
Views & Sunsets in the Evenings
Due to its position so high up Corniglia also has some incredible views that you can’t find in any other town. There are bars overlooking the sea and some stunning viewpoints! They can get quite crowded during the day, but in the evening, you can really enjoy them as the sun sets. Those who stay in town after sunset or stay overnight will be rewarded!
Final thoughts, all 5 towns of the Cinque Terre have something to offer. We have also stayed in Monterosso multiple times as it has easy beach access and a larger town. I love each town and I hope to someday base myself in each one.
If you’re interested in basing in Monterosso check out my post here: Mini guide to Monterosso a Mare
If you’re interested in basing in Riomaggiore, you can check out my post about our recent visit here —> Riomaggiore as a Base for Cinque Terre