We had been anticipating visiting Tunisia for a long time before we actually went. I have to admit, some things were just as I imagined, and some things were vastly different. Therefore, I am trying to write this blog post as truthfully as possible. We loved many things about visiting Tunisia. But, there are many things I wish I knew, or wish other travelers had been more open about.
I understand the position of privilege that I bring to my travels. I know that some things that seem “normal” to me can be strange in many areas of the world. I just want to be completely truthful about the experience. This way other travelers can decide for themselves before heading to Tunisia.
Know before visiting Tunisia
Tunisia has its own currency called the Dinar
The Tunisian currency can be slightly confusing. You will get the hang of it with some practice. Sometimes in shops, on menus, etc the currency would be written in different ways. This made it challenging at times to understand what you actually owed. I highly recommend a conversion calculator app to make things easier. You will also sometimes be quoted prices in Euros and then have to convert to Dinar.
Credit Card is accepted many places (but not everywhere)
Credit cards could be used in almost all hotels, major shops, restaurants, etc. Alternatively, in the souks and in smaller spots it was necessary to have cash. It was also necessary to have cash to pay for taxis/rides.
Getting around Tunis
It is important to have planned transportation for getting around Tunis. We got around in a few different ways during our trip.
- We used our accommodation to hire rides for us. Many of our hotels would call us a taxi, or help us to pre-arrange a driver for our excursions.
- We used an app called “inDrive”. I recommend downloading this app and getting set up BEFORE you arrive in Tunisia. We had a hard time when we were there (the SMS verification didn’t come through for a few days). This app works like uber where you can call a ride through the app. However, unlike uber, it is a bidding app. The price you offer is not guaranteed, the taxi driver has to accept your offer. Sometimes you will need to raise your offer to get them to pick you up. You also still have to pay with cash when you get in the taxi.
- There are also public transportation options but we did not utilize them.
Safety
We never felt unsafe in Tunis or in Tunisia at all. We are always extremely cautious travelers and take normal safety precautions wherever we go. We didn’t feel that we needed to do anything beyond what we normally do traveling here. I will admit that we stayed in very nice accommodation and that I felt much more comfortable doing so.
Pay Attention!
I don’t want to call this a scam, more like a swindle. But, we felt like everyone in Tunisia wanted something from us. We had a very hard time making any authentic connections. Many times people would start out friendly, then try to get take us somewhere/get us to buy something. Then they would immediately disregard us when we said no thank you. This pattern happened CONSTANTLY.
Here are a few common things that happened to us: I want to be very clear that these happened to us MULTIPLE times over the course a few days. This does not mean they will happen to you. But I wanted to share so that others could be aware.
- Someone pretending to be staff from our hotel. Saying “I recognize you guys, come see my friends shop”. When you say “no thank you” they disappear FAST.
- Someone noticing you’re a tourist and offering to show you a FREE viewpoint. Then delivering you to a shop after you see the viewpoint.
- Just know if someone asks you to “follow” them, it’s a red flag, period.
- Taxi drivers will encourage you to see and do things beyond what you have planned. It is also okay to say no thank you.
- Taxi drivers will try to pick you up when walking and tell you a place is further than it is and that you need a ride. It is okay to say no.
This is still very much a developing country
I am not saying this as a deterrent or to say that it is a bad thing. But I do believe we thought it was going to be a bit more developed than it was. There were still some sanitary things that made us feel very wary or uncomfortable. There was essentially trash everywhere. We don’t come from the cleanest city in America so we do understand issues with trash. But I can say we were surprised by the sheer volume of it.
We also had a hard time feeling confident trying any street food. It was often being handled entirely without gloves. We also couldn’t tell if people were handling raw meat and then cooked food without any sort of sanitary measures being taken in between. Some food stands also just didn’t look quite clean themselves. Overall we just avoided street food and mostly ate in sit down places or in hotels.
You can get alcohol, but not everywhere
Tunis is a pretty relaxed country when it comes to alcohol. We didn’t see people sitting around the streets drinking at tables like you would in Europe. But in quieter places or smaller spots, alcohol was served. Hotels and hotel restaurants often also serve alcohol to guests. If you are a big drinker, this might not be the place for you. But if you’re okay with a quiet drink at the end of the night somewhere, or no drink at all, you’ll be fine.
I am a wine drinker, and Tunisia makes some pretty impressive wines! I really enjoyed trying some of the wines with dinners at our hotels. I particularly enjoyed their red wines.
Where to stay in/near Tunis
Tunis and the surrounding area have an impressive amount of lovely accommodation options. We stayed in two hotels in this area and explored a 3rd. All 3 I found to be wonderful choices for where to base yourself in Tunis.
If you’re interested in finding your own options you can click here —> Hotels in Tunis
In Tunis: Dar El Jeld
This hotel is located right inside the Tunis Medina. It is on the edge and is on a quiet, safe, and secure street. If we returned to Tunis, this would be the place I would stay. We did have lunch here and got to walk around inside the hotel a bit. It was absolutely lovely inside, like Tunis was keeping a secret. It was so clean and well kept, the food was lovely, the rooftop views over Tunis were stunning. The whole place felt like a peaceful getaway within the bustle of such a busy city.
If you’re interested in viewing and booking this hotel you can click here —> Dar El Jeld
Outside Tunis: Four Seasons
Let me start by saying this was our first time staying in a Four Seasons property. We don’t have much experience at all with luxury hotels. When we found out we could actually afford to stay here, we had to jump at the opportunity. This hotel was located about a 30 minute ride from the Tunis Medina and center. It was such an amazing place to return to at the end of our days exploring.
I have to admit, I could get used to this type of stay. It was a huge resort and it was absolutely beautiful. Our room had a view of the sea and a little terrace we could sit on. We had our first experience with heated bathroom floors. The bed was incredibly comfortable and the room was huge. We loved the dining options here and having a drink on the patio overlooking the giant pool area was so lovely.
We visited in the off season (December), so this may be why we were able to get such a reasonable price. Regardless, it was such a wonderful stay that I would highly recommend.
It is important to note that there is not really anything else to do in this area. You are a cab ride from Tunis, Sidi Bou Said, and the ruins of Carthage. It is a nice central location to do all of those things. But if you walked outside of the hotel compound, there wasn’t much else there.
Near Sid Bou Said: Maison Dedine
Another option for a stay near Tunis is to base yourself in Sidi Bou Said. This is a really charming little coastal village that is also about 35 minutes from the center of Tunis. People compare it to Santorini, Greece. You can see why with its white washed buildings and blue accent decor. However, it is important to note that this village is really just one main street with some shops and places to eat. While lovely, we felt it had been a bit overhyped online.
This boutique stay was the most perfect little get away from EVERYTHING. It is located DIRECTLY on the sea and below the village of Sidi Bou Said. You should note that to visit the village you have to walk about 10 minutes up a steep hill or grab a taxi. We don’t mind a walk and we like our peace so this place was perfect.
When you walk into this house, you feel like you’re actually on the water. You can see the sea from the minute you walk in. We also booked a sea view room and I am so glad we did. We could hear the ocean from our bed at night and watch the waves for sunset and sunrise. The family that owns this house was incredibly lovely, welcomed us with tea, and helped with anything we needed during our stay.
It would be lovely to visit here in summer and be able to utilize the pool area as well. The Carthage ruins are also easily accessible from here. So this makes a great base for exploring around Tunis and the surrounding area as well.
If you would like to view and book this hotel, click here —-> Maison Dedine
Things to do in Tunis
This section includes things to do in the actual Medina/city area of Tunis proper. The following section will include things to do BEYOND Tunis.
Tour of the Medina/Shopping in the Souks
I highly recommend a guided tour of the Tunis souks and Medina when you arrive. Our first day we didn’t have a guide and we felt a bit overwhelmed. After exploring with a guide we felt so much more confident wandering the streets on our own.
Our guide was so kind and so full of knowledge about Tunis and the history of the whole area. We loved getting the chance to learn more, to hear more about the area, and get some in depth knowledge. We also stopped into some places that we likely would have missed wandering around on our own. We tried tea in a very special cafe, got to visit a shop where they make perfume scents, and got to know the Medina on a different level.
We didn’t come to Tunis to shop. But if shopping is your thing, there is something for everyone here. They have souks for clothing, jewelry, furniture, electronics, fabrics, and the list goes on and on.
You can find the tour that we did here —-> Tunis Medina & Street Food Tour
Find rooftops
There are MANY rooftops with amazing views over the Medina. If anyone says they’re going to lead you to one, just say no thank you. Trust me, you can find them on your own. Many belong to cafes, restaurants, or hotels and are open to the public. You just have to do a little research.
Sample Cafes
Cities like Tunis are full of secrets. There are so many places that look like nothing from the outside and open up to be so big and beautiful on the inside. Don’t be afraid to peek in doorways or head back further into shops and alleys. There is always something to be found. Many of these hidden spots are lovely cafes with great teas.
Bardo Museum
This is the one thing we didn’t get to do in Tunis that we wish we did. This museum is raved about and everyone says you should see it. We saved it for the end and then didn’t make it. But I would recommend if you have the interest, that you check it out. The actual building itself looks gorgeous and it is full of special artifacts and history. I would be remiss not to mention it for a visit to Tunis.
Where to eat in Tunis
Admittedly we did not eat in Tunis like we normally would on a trip. As I mentioned above, we had some health concerns that kept us from eating just anywhere here. It was a bit limiting. We are normally the type of people to eat and try absolutely anything. We were much more reserved here.
The Four Seasons
We ate two dinners at the Four Seasons Tunis. One was in their fancier restaurant called the Creek Bistro. We had a wonderful dinner here. We shared foie gras, I had seafood risotto and my husband had meat dish. I had a nice Tunisian red wine to go with my meal.
We also ate at their pool/beach front restaurant and had pizzas. At first I was embarrassed to admit that I had pizza in a place like Tunisia. Alas, this was truly some of the best pizza we’ve ever had. Tunisia makes INCREDIBLE bread and olive oil. What does that equate to? Some EXCELLENT pizza. I hate to say I recommend you eat pizza in Tunisia, but I really do!
Dar El Jeld
There are also two options for dining here. We ate lunch at their more casual rooftop restaurant. It serves international cuisine and has arguably the best views over the Tunis, Medina. It was very relaxed but and peaceful. We had lunch and I had a nice glass of wine. If you want a spot with a view that caters to tourists, this is your place.
They also have another restaurant that is inside the hotel, far more fancy, and is authentic Tunisian food. We wanted to go here, but didn’t end up getting the chance. It is often listed as one of the best in Tunisia and I would believe that to be true. It also has the most stunning interior.
Bab Tounes
After a quick “where to have lunch in Tunis” google I found this spot. It was down a quiet little alley right off the busy souks. It ended up being perfect. We had some local Tunisian dishes and really enjoyed it. I had couscous with fish, my husband had it with lamb, and we split some bread and veggies as well. It was quiet & clean, the staff were super friendly, and. we enjoyed our lunch here.
Dar Belhadj
We didn’t get the chance to eat here, but it was recommended to us multiple times. If we were to return, we would give it a try. Multiple taxi drivers as well as our tour guide mentioned this as an excellent place to eat.
Things To do Beyond Tunis
Explore Sidi Bou Said
As mentioned above, Sidi Bou Said is a lovely village on the coast near Tunis. It is a great place to spend a few hours strolling the beautiful streets, sitting in a cafe, grabbing lunch, or just wandering. One thing that you MUST do here is try a bambalouni. This is a Tunisian donut and it is FANTASTIC! It only costs a fraction of a dollar, which is shocking to me, because I’d pay handsomely for these things!
I feel I must also mention that the blue and white color scheme and fact that you can see the ocean from the village are where the similarities end between Sidi Bou Said and Santorini. It may be a cute comparison, but if you’re heading here expecting anything like Santorini, you will not get it. I also had to very carefully take these photos to hide the amount of trash here.
Visit Carthage
The Carthage ruins are essentially Roman ruins. Carthage was originally one of the most important cities of the Phoenician empire, which was destroyed and then rebuilt by Romans. There are so many sites you can explore and much more in tact than you might expect. It is very much an area worth exploring.
The Ruins of Carthage are very neat to experience and something I highly recommend. Visiting in December it was great to be able to walk from site to site comfortably. I have read reviews that say it can be a lot more hot and uncomfortable in the summer.
If you like to walk and the weather is right, you can easily walk between a number of the major sites. This is what we did. Taxis will also offer to take you around to each site, they will wait for you and then continue on. You could book a taxi for the day to take you site by site. Another option is a guided or group tour of the sites. If this is your vibe there are a number of options as well.
If you want to find a guided tour of Carthage you can check out some options here —> Carthage Tours
Hire a Driver to take you to El Jem
This is a far more extensive day trip and is about 2.5 hours from Tunis depending on traffic and time of day. This one might not be worth everyone’s time, but if you’re interested, it is a really neat place to see.
El Jem is one of the largest and best preserved amphitheaters in the world. It is a UNESCO world heritage site. It is special because, unlike the Colosseum in Rome, you can walk around almost all of it. Once you pay to enter, the whole place basically becomes your playground. It was a jungle gym for many kids we saw visiting.
We loved getting to see it, walk around inside and outside, and have lunch in the area. We had our hotel hire us a driver and it was an excellent and easy experience.
If you want to go a cheaper route you can also take public buses.
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