This is not your “typical” itinerary for this area of the world. Many people prefer to base in Nice and spend time town hopping along the Riviera during the days. Personally, I don’t love Nice as a base and I have a whole post on why I prefer Villfranche Sur Mer.
You can check that post out here ——> Villefranche Sur Mer as a base for the French Riviera.
But that aside, this itinerary is more relaxed, more local, and isn’t really hitting any of the major touristy points. That is the way I wanted it. So if you’re looking for a more “offbeat” and relaxed way to explore for a few days in the French & Italian Riviera this is it! It’s also great if you’re planning to visit any of the towns within this itinerary. You could simply click on that day and find some of the things I enjoyed.
Day 1: Menton & Italian Riviera Beach Club
Arriving into the NCE airport it is very easy to hop the train to Menton. The walk to the train station from the airport only takes a few minutes and is very clearly marked.
Check into Ibis Menton Center
I booked the Ibis Menton Centre for it’s central location, value, walkability, and comfort. I was very glad that I did. The staff in this hotel were some of the most kind we’ve encountered. They really went out of their way to make sure we felt welcome and taken care of and we even got an early check in. Our balcony view was lovely, the room was clean and comfortable, the location couldn’t be beat, and the breakfast was very pleasant. I usually go for a more boutique style hotel, but this was a win for a one night stay. If I were to stay here again I’d try to book the apartment room with the terrace with views over all of Menton & the surrounding area.
Balzi Rossi Beach Club
The first thing we did after settling our things in our hotel room was walk to Italy. And no, I’m not kidding. From Menton it took about 40 minutes to walk along the seaside promenade right into Italy and to Balzi Rossi beach club.
This was honestly perfect, we booked front row seats at this charming little club and had ourselves a day. All beach clubs are NOT created equal and the big difference at this one, in my opinion, was the food. It was fantastic, I would truly go back here again just to eat. We had a lovely bottle of rosé, had lunch, snacks, and enjoyed our time here.
We spent about 50 euro per person for our chairs on a Monday in early June. Rates will vary depending on when you go and what row you choose to sit in. I wouldn’t have paid a premium for front row but since it was a Monday it was only a few bucks more so we figured it was worth it!
Stroll & Shop
After the beach club and cleaning ourselves up for a night out we hit the streets. The streets of Menton are so lovely. The town isn’t huge but it has a lot of shops and spots to check out. You can pop in and out of places to buy fragrances, soap, clothes, taste limoncello, try sweets, etc. It’s such a lovely vibe to wander around and explore it all.
Apertif & Dinner
Once you’re all shopped out grab an apertif and then dinner. I loved having an apertif and a charcuterie and cheese board at Persephone Menton. It was down a cute little alley and had great vibes. I don’t have a strong dinner recommendation because we honestly visited on a Monday and many of the places we wanted to try were closed.
If given the opportunity there are a few spots I wanted to try.
The first I am not sure I’d actually make the splurge, but there is a 3 Michelin Star spot called Restaurant Mirazur here and it’s supposed to be one of the most amazing. I would heavily consider it if we’re in the area again when it is open.
Another spot by the same chef is called Casa Fuego and it more Argentinian focused cuisine. As someone who absolutely LOVED asado in Argentina I would love to check this place out sometime.
The last one that stood out to me is L’Orangerie. The menu and vibes looked so great here I would try to get a reso when we come back.
Day 2: Diano Marina & Cervo
The next morning I woke up and went for a run on the coastal path. Since we had walked to Italy the day before I ran towards Monaco on this run. You can actually go all the way to Monaco on the coastal path (and I have). It’s a really incredibly beautiful walk that takes about 2 hours. It’s definitely worth doing if you have extra time in the area. I actually recommend doing it from Monaco to Menton so you can jump right in the sea when you’re finished.
Train to Diano Marina
The train to Diano Marina is pretty straight forward but it does involve one change. When you cross the border from France into Italy you must transfer in Ventimiglia. This is a rule no matter which direction you’re traveling. So you take a train from Menton to Ventimiglia which takes about 12 minutes and then Ventimiglia to Diano Marina which took about 45.
When you arrive at the Diano train station you will realize it is very small. Have your accommodation hire you a taxi or pre plan for a pick up. This isn’t the kind of place where a taxi will just come by. From the train station its about a 10 minute drive to Diano Marina or about a 50 minute walk.
Check into Hotel Arc En Ciel
You must stay in Hotel Arc En Ciel if you visit Diano Marina. It was absolute perfection! I saw it online and it was the literal reason we visited this town. It did NOT disappoint! In fact it exceeded my expectations.
From check in to check out the staff were so incredibly kind, helpful, and welcoming. We had a room at the top of the property with the most gorgeous view over the entire landscape of Diano Marina all the way to Cervo. We spent countless hours sitting on our balcony or on the terrace of the hotel throughout our stay.
The first thing we did upon check in was have a delightful lunch on the hotel terrace. We loved the fresh salads each day and the breakfast here was plentiful and delicious. There was a huge buffet and they also had a la carte options that could be made by the chef.
The hotel also had free bike rentals, yoga classes, and the most lovely dock you could relax and swim from all day long. The room was very clean and comfortable and the shower was one of the best we’ve had in Italy.
Bike to Cervo
There is a cycling path that runs through Diano Marina and along the Ligurian coast and it is a dream! Unfortunately when we visited the portion of the path that goes onward to Imperia was under repair. But thankfully we were able to ride the other direction and we biked all the way to Andora. This section of the bike trail was built over old railway tracks so there are no cars here, strictly pedestrian and bicycles.
We stopped off in Cervo and hiked up to check out the town. We took a peek at the church and castle and saw some lovely views. It was such a fun and easy ride and the path is absolutely dreamy! You ride all along the water and you can see everyone enjoying the beaches. I absolutely loved running along the path in the mornings too! It’s always so nice when you can feel so safe and relaxed doing something like this.
Dinner & Drinks
You have got to spend some time walking around the town area of Diano Marina. It is so cute and charming. The aperitivo here is taken seriously and a lot of places have excellent ones! Grab a drink and some snacks and then walk around again a little bit before dinner. This town wasn’t the type for me to be crazy searching dinner spots. We just wandered the streets until we got hungry and sat down when we saw some good looking food! It worked out every time.
Day 3: Diano Marina & Diano Castello
Bike path run
The great thing about the cycling path is that you can also use it to run! I did this both mornings we were here and enjoyed it immensely. I was actually able to run all the way to Cervo and back for about an 8 mile run! You could also rent the bikes and ride again in the morning, or go for a morning swim off the dock. There are lots of options here. You could also be less crazy than I am and just wake up and enjoy the hotels glorious breakfast.
Breakfast on the Terrace
Honestly, we took breakfast really seriously here. Each morning we sat for at least an hour and enjoyed our coffee, the food, and the insane views. The water is crystal clear here and so stunning to sit and look at. The terrace is so relaxed and perfect for spending some extra time. As mentioned above, breakfast is plentiful and had so many options. They really had something for everyone.
Walk up to Diano Castello
We had been peering up at Diano Castello on the hill for the past day so we decided to take a stroll up to check it out. The walk took about 45-50 minutes each way. It wasn’t as steep as it looked from down in Diano Marina. When we got up there we wandered the medieval streets for a bit, peeked in the church, and then found a sweet little cafe with an incredible view to sit and have a drink.
We visited at around 11 am on a Wednesday and the town was extremely quiet. The cafe we found was the only one open and there wasn’t much “to do” up there besides walk around. I still loved seeing it. But if that doesn’t sound like something you’re interested in you could skip it. You could also serach during the time of your visit to see if any lunch spots would be open or any evening things are going on in the town. I would try this next time if we were to return.
Beach time
We spent the rest of our afternoon on loungers at the hotel “beach”. This is such a perfect place to relax and hang out. The dock is so comfortable and beautiful. The sand here when you walk in is so soft and the water is shallow. You can enjoy the water and the sunshine all day long. We stayed for lunch again and had some delicious salads before finally packing it in for the day to get ready for town.
Aperitivo shopping and dinner
Same routine as last night. Stroll, sip, and shop around. This time we had dinner on the water so that we could watch the sunset and it was seriously lovely. We had a really simple meal of just pasta and house wine. For 20 euro each and the dreamiest view this was a perfect way to end our time in Diano Marina.
Day 4: Villefranche Sur Mer
Morning Routine
Wake up and do your morning routine to your liking!
Train to Villefranche
Today we essentially reversed the train route from the other day. Train from Diano Marina to switch in Ventimiglia. Then a train to Villefranche Sur Mer. This one will take a little longer today as you’re heading back towards Nice. When you arrive in Villefranche it’s about a 15 minute walk to the hotel. You could also arrange a ride or choose a different hotel, I will list a few options here because I have been a few times!
Check into your hotel (3 options and all are amazing)
Hotel Le Versaillies (click to book): This is my personal favorite and I’ll tell you why. Although this one is on the edge of town (about a 6-7 minute walk to the center) it has the most incredible property. The views from the sea view rooms are incredible. You can watch the boats come in and out of Villefranche all day long. This hotel also has a very impressive communal area for drinks and dining and a terrace with the same dreamy view. The pool area is really lovely and peaceful and you can spend the hotter hours of the day just relaxing here. The room was large, clean, and comfortable. I honestly just loved this stay.
Welcome Hotel (click to book): You absolutely can not go wrong with the Welcome Hotel. This is what I would consider the “iconic” hotel of Villefranche Sur Mer. It is set right on the water in the middle of town and it is GORGEOUS! The rooms are large and bright, the staff are super kind and welcoming, and the whole place is very luxurious. I also enjoy having an apertif here whether I am staying here or not. They have a really nice set up and a perfect people/sea watching location.
Hotel Provencal (click to book): This delightful pink hotel is also a perfect stay. The only reason it is listed third here is that the Hotel Versaillies has a pool and the Welcome Hotel is so iconic. The Hotel Provencal is your great value for money best bet. The rooms are bright and clean and many have sea view options. The pink style is so charming. The little bar is lovely and there are a few courtyards where you can relax and hang out. This hotel was right on the edge of town (4-5 minute walk in) and overall a great base for spending a few days in the area.
Lunch at Dry
After you’re settled in whichever hotel you’ve chosen, it’s time for lunch. Dry is one of my favorite spots for lunch. It’s funky and fun and right on the water so you don’t feel like you’re missing any of the action by stopping for lunch. I will admit the price tags in Villefranche can be kind of a shock coming from Diano Marina, but the food and service are really nice! Grab a seat by the water, grab a rosé, and enjoy lunch here. They also do have a pre fixe lunch menu. It was 29 euro for a salad, meal, and a glass of wine.
Hang at pool at Le Versailles/Hang at the Beach
Depending on where you choose to stay you again have some options. We chose to hang out at our pool for the afternoon and relax. It was so nice to lay in a sun bed, sip some rosé, and spy on all the billionaires on their yachts!
You could also hit the beach and you have options there as well. There are a few “beach clubs” in town where you can rent a chair for the day. There is also a decent sized public beach where you can just throw down your own towel and relax.
Bonus tip: behind the fort there are also some lovely hidden beaches. The water is insane and they are VERY chilled out. There are no facilities over there so you’re literally just going for the beach. But I enjoyed spending some time over there.
Apertif at Welcome Hotel
This is one of my favorite places to have an apertif. You can choose to sit up by the hotel and people watch as everyone comes in and out of the main promenade. Or you can choose to sit down by the water and watch the boats. Either way you’re winning. They have a really nice selection of wine and cocktails and you get some yummy chips & breadsticks with your drink. My personal favorite is their rosé from Corsica.
Dinner at Olivula
This is my favorite dinner in Villefranche. After basing here for 4 days I ate in a lot of spots! The food, service, and vibes here can’t be beat. I will admit that for many this dinner would be considered a splurge. It’s always the special dinner of a trip to this area.
The great thing about this place is that you can’t go wrong. The seafood is phenomenal. I love the raw red shrimp carpaccio and the spiny lobster risotto. I have also had the giant seafood bowl. My husband has had the meat here and loved it. We’ve also had the foie gras and veggies. The pistachio tiramisu (made table-side) is also a really fun and delicious desert!
If you have more time
This is a whirlwind itinerary that we did during a quick summer break trip! But I have explored this area a lot and I have a number of posts about the area that could be helpful if you have more time here!
I based in Villefranche Sur Mer for 4 days on a solo trip and wrote a whole blog post about it. You can find that here —–> Villefranche Sur Mer as a Base for the French Riviera.
I have also spent a TON of time on the Italian Riviera. I have many posts for this area. If you’re interested in Ventimiglia (right over the border) check out my post here —-> Ventimiglia Mini Guide.
If you’re not familiar with Liguria and you want to find your vibe, check out this post here —–> Find your Liguria Travel Style (9 Places on the Riviera)
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